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Which Direction To Lay Laminate Wood Flooring – When it comes to interior design, the direction of flooring can be a difficult topic for homeowners to deal with. Have you ever thought?
“If so, we’re here to help with this age-old debate, and the answer might surprise you!”
Which Direction To Lay Laminate Wood Flooring
It’s no secret that the direction your flooring is laid can change the look, feel, and even perceived size. In this blog we will explore two popular floor orientations: vertical and parallel, and find out which is right for you.
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When deciding which direction to install your new floor, you have two main options: vertical and parallel. Let’s explore the pros and cons of each style.
Also known as vertical horizontal floor direction the eye moves from side to side of the room. In large rooms this makes the space feel larger. However, vertical tables can have the opposite effect on narrow or very compact spaces – making them feel smaller than they already are.
Vertical and parallel floor directions are also known to draw the eye forward – often to an entrance, architectural feature or light source such as a window. This classic floor guide is the traditional choice for most installations. It is also great for small spaces as it can add a new dimension of depth. However, if you are trying to reduce the size of the room or make it feel more comfortable, parallel tables may not be for you as they make the space look longer.
So which side should you choose? Of course, it really depends on your personal preferences, the layout of the room and the look and feel you’re looking for. Also, pay attention to the shape of the room as well as the furniture items in your space which can influence your decision.
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But no matter which you choose, your space will be as stylish as can be with your new flooring! Parallel or vertical, you are guaranteed a beautiful finished look.
If you have any questions or would like to speak to one of our flooring experts, please contact us here. We look forward to helping you find your perfect flooring match. We spoke to a flooring expert for some installation tips to help you avoid bumps, bumps, gaps and cracks.
As you start measuring your starting line, you also need to make sure the walls are parallel. You might install laminate in a 6 inch room. Narrow from one side to the other. This means you will have to close a very obvious last row and it will look ugly. Unless one side of the room is permanently covered with furniture, it is best to split the difference and reduce the first and last row so that neither side is too visible.
The entire lower part should be taped. It’s tempting to use whatever tape you find lying around, but don’t. Some packing tape and household wrapping tape are very hard and can make annoying squeaking noises when you step on them. Use whatever tape is recommended by the panty manufacturer, or buy a panty with built-in seam tape.
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Our flooring professional recommends installing the boards vertically. The bottom layer may “bubble” during floor formation. He also suggests placing only a few rows at a time to avoid tearing them with your shoes.
Laminate floor systems do not work well on uneven surfaces. Before starting any tiling work, check the sub-floor. Crawl around with the tip to find areas above or below 1/8 inch. Basement veins are common complaints.
A belt sander with a coarse grit belt will sand the joints very quickly, but you may need to hire a commercial floor sander to grind the coarser tops.
Soaking in the floor will result in a soft and spongy part of the laminate floor. Most dips can be treated with AS and vinyl floor repair. Buy a quick dry type if you want to start installing the floor the same day.
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“Avoid floors at your level, especially in older homes,” says Jay, our flooring professional. “An off-level floor can take a full truckload to level itself. And yes, yes – it’s time to nail the plywood to the joists wherever the dishes are.”
Cutting laminate with a miter saw gets noisy and dusty very quickly, and walking back and forth to your miter saw is not very efficient. Instead, cut the boards with laminate quietly and neatly where they are going to be installed.
Installing the floor around the opening is one of the most difficult problems you will face. Simplify it by starting on the wall with the most openings. Of course, jamming and trimming will still be required, but it’s easier to start with a door than to end with one.
It’s tempting to find the longest, straightest wall and start plasterboarding. The problem is when you go to the opposite wall, you might scratch the thin line of the floor. It does not look good and is difficult to install.
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Plan ahead by attaching a section of four or five pieces, attach it to a wall and draw a pencil line on the outside of the attached piece, then slide the section to the opposite wall, line it up with the pencil line. Go across the room like this to decide if you should start with a cut row and how wide it should be. It’s not an exact science, but it’s a quick way to get a good idea of how wide the final row will be without doing any math.
Plaque replacement or non-cooperative plaque closure is sometimes required. Yes, you need to use a taping block, but to avoid damaging your new floor, clip some of the victim’s debris and tape it to prevent the edge of the new floor from being damaged.
If you actually read the instructions on most laminate floors, these pieces are put together. Some floors (usually the cheaper stuff) are almost impossible to install without damaging the boards. If you’re having trouble, sew the ends of the entire row together, then pin it as if it were one long piece.
If you are installing floors that continue through the opening, it is best to leave a gap (rather than glue the floor together) to have the transition strip between the rows. Place the gap directly under the door so that the transition strip makes a visual impression. A transition strip allows each room to be treated as a separate project. This allows more flexibility in your design and layout.
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There is often no escape from reaching the door. When this happens, it’s a bit difficult because you have to slide the floor under the two jambs. Here’s how to deal with it with just a little woodwork to trim:
Plan on a cell in the middle of the opening. Score and cut the first piece to fit and then slide it completely under the jamb. Mark the second piece so that it is shorter than the door stop when in place. Lift the floor to get it around the corner and under the casing, then remove it.
Once the two pieces are connected, slide them far enough so that both sides cover the edges of the floor.
Laminate floors expand and contract with changes in humidity and temperature. So, before starting any lamination work, pay attention to the furniture in the room. Heavy furniture such as a pool table or a fully loaded bookshelf can pinch the laminate, causing it to warp as it is stretched or split. The trouble starts when you have two large pieces of furniture directly across from each other that touch the floor. You have to lose one of the furniture items or go with a different floor material to avoid problems. How much weight will a floor hold? A good rule of thumb is that a normal laminate floor can still move just fine under a fully stocked refrigerator.
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The hard knee pads you wear for roofing and landscaping are not the same knee pads you should wear for flooring. There’s no doubt about it: hard floors for the knees and the wrong knee pads will scratch the laminate floor. Floor installations require pads that have fabric, foam or a soft rubber material on the business side. Gel-filled pads are more comfortable because the gel helps distribute the pressure.
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I am planning to install new laminate flooring in a bedroom that has two closets, and I
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