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Find The Right Oil Filter For My Car – Go to Trusted Industry and Automation 2023 for free – apply now to our qualified user program
Car owners often get conflicting advice about oil filters. Owners’ manuals, installers, fast-track operators, mechanics and sales clerks have different opinions. The truth is that when it comes to oil and filters, the only right answer is a custom answer.
Find The Right Oil Filter For My Car
Different people. Driving conditions are different. A one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t work when it comes to oil filters.
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Controlling solids contamination in diesel and gasoline crankcase oils has a well-documented effect on engine reliability. In addition to wear and tear and reliability, particulate pollution can affect fuel consumption, fuel health and environmental issues.
Increased service life and reduced maintenance costs are often reported by drivers who follow good filtration practices.
Consider this, according to a study by an engine manufacturer, particles smaller than 10 microns produce about 3.6 times more wear (rods, rings and main bearings) than particles larger than 20 microns. A standard car oil filter removes particles 40 microns and larger.
General Motors’ AC Delco division tested diesel engines and found an eight-fold increase in wear rate and engine life with lower levels of lubricating oil contaminants.
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In studies related to both diesel engines and automobiles, General Motors reported that “compared to a 40 micron filter, engine wear is reduced by 50 percent with a 30 micron filter. Similarly, wear is reduced by 70 percent with a filter of 15 micron”. Read more. That promotes clean oil!
There are many different types of contaminants that can get into a car’s oil, and many of them have the potential to be dangerous. This includes water, glycol, gasoline, bad oil, dirt, clothing debris, etc. Solid pollutants are often referred to as the most destructive.
After oxygen, silicon is the most common element on earth. Silica and silicates (a form of silicon dioxide) make up most of the earth’s crust in the form of natural soils and surface dust.
External contamination of the lubricating oil with dust (silica and alumina) is generally considered to be the most dangerous in the engine area. For reference, both of these common saw blades are heavier than a saw blade. Engine parts do not have hard surfaces like saw blades.
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“These normal bits are harder than a saw. Engine parts don’t have hard surfaces like a saw.”
Sand and dust particles in the air vary in size, shape and surface area. In the engine, the entry of surface dust occurs mainly through the air intake. An active air filter removes 99 percent or more of the dust absorbed by the engine.
The rest consists of very small particles that pass through the air filter. These vary from sub-micron sized particles to particles up to and larger than 10 microns.
This explosive dust will pass between the pistons, rings and cylinder walls. Many particles will end up suspended in the engine oil. Particles of the same size as the oil film release cause significant damage.
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Small particles from the work area will pass through them and cause less damage. On the other hand, larger particles from the discharge will be pushed aside and may cause less damage. In an engine, the clearance between the piston ring and the cylinder bore is very small, usually 5 to 10 microns.
For reference, a thousandth of an inch is 25 microns, and a thin human hair is 75 microns. Humans can only see objects 40 microns and larger, and bacteria are 1 to 3 microns in size.
As with motor oil, the number of small particles per milliliter of oil is much greater than the number of large particles. About 80 percent of the mass of normal road dust is smaller than 25 microns.
The high concentration of small particles in engine oil is also due to the fact that small particles are more sensitive to environmental pollution. Larger particles are more fragile and tend to break into more particles. In addition, it is easy to filter and remove large particles by settling in the hole.
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If the dust particles have entered the oil film, if they are of the same size, they can join the two surfaces. This eliminates the effect of the oil film. The main effect is a shearing or “scraping” action as the cross grains are drawn and folded in opposite directions.
Secondary effects occur in folding connections. Loads concentrated in small areas of the particles lead to high fatigue, bending and eventually large craters.
In controlling wear and failure due to particles, the first priority is to take all practical steps to prevent dust from entering the engine compartment.
Although gasoline engines use a closed crankcase, particles can still enter the new oil through dirty dipsticks and dipsticks, damaged air cleaners, etc. The next important goal is to choose the right oil filter.
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For the same reason it is important to adjust the choice of engine oil, there are many options and the same considerations to be achieved when choosing an engine oil filter.
In fact, there are so many problems related to sorting a car that a small book could be written on this topic alone. We may write a book one day, but for now this article will only present the important factors for choosing oil filters – summarized in the list below:
Let’s start by talking about the working principle of the oil filter. The filter used for automotive engine oil is located immediately below the oil pump. Cars come with a factory full oil filter, but some DIYers will also install a bypass oil filter.
Automotive engine oil filters are sometimes called spin-on because the filter element is located in a box mounted on a rotating base plate on the threaded mounting post and head plate on the engine block.
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A gasket or O-ring provides a seal between the base plate and the head plate. The oil enters the can through the hole on the outside of the base plate, from the outside it goes through the filter paper (media) to the tube in the middle.
From the center pipe, the oil passes through the base plate, then through the mounting post and into the main oil gallery. Common parts of a car oil filter are listed below:
Prevents deflection (movement) of the gasket sealing surface. A heavy duty steel plate provides a threaded connection to the engine. It provides flow slots for oil to flow in and out of the filter.
It retains the adhesive end of the element and the edge of the filter media. It provides clean oil extraction, and provides structural stability to the folded media.
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It provides the critical filtration surface and pore structure required for unrestricted flow, dirt holding capacity and particle efficiency.
Provides internal element support to prevent element curling in response to cold starts and high differential pressure.
It ensures that there is an appropriate and consistent load on the oil filter element to maintain the seal between the upper end element and the base plate, even during pressure build-up, shock and vibration.
Prevents pollution after ignition and temporary starvation when starting the engine. They are usually made of nitrile or silicone. Silicone may remain more flexible in cold weather.
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The filter media must remove particles from the oil in the target size range (eg 10 microns), according to the reliability criteria of the car owner. Obviously, micron-sized oil filters are associated with lower wear rates and longer engine life (more on that below).
The filter must also be able to remove particles fast enough to keep up with new particles entering the oil (infiltration rate). This is called the balance of pollution control factors. In the engine, the pump circulates the oil in a multi-pass fashion, giving the oil filter more than one chance to remove particles.
Most oil filters have an anti-drain flap valve, but not all. The flap is a diaphragm and is usually made of a soft elastomer material such as silicone or nitrile.
This valve prevents oil from returning to the sump when the engine is turned off. This has two advantages. One is that it prevents dirt from washing behind the outside of the media filter and sump.
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The second is that it keeps the spin-on tank full of oil. When the engine is restarted, the oil can quickly go to the main oil gallery and to the working area of the engine without refilling the sump – absorbing the pump’s supply for a while.
This prevents dry starting (oil starvation) of valve trains (especially overhead camshafts), turbochargers and bearings. Such a dry start is reported to cause loud knocking and rattling. A backflow prevention valve feature is usually required when the oil filter is oriented horizontally or vertically.
Most car oil filters also have a built-in valve. The exception is when the bypass valve is permanently installed in the engine block. The bypass valve helps to prevent the filter from falling if it blocks before turning.
Also, during a cold morning start, thick tire oil can pass through the filter without damaging it
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